Climb Mount Tetnuldi (4858m) – Georgian Caucasus

Trip: Ascent of Mount Tetnuldi (4858m)

Region: Upper Svaneti, Caucasus, Georgia

Experience required: Proficient use of ice axe and crampons. Alpine climbing / mountaineering experience at PD or equivalent. Strong fitness.

Price: Dependent on group size

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Join us on a mountaineering expedition to Mount Tetnuldi (4858m), deep in the remote region of Upper Svaneti in the Georgian Caucasus.

Experience the thrill of climbing a summit higher than Mt Blanc, but without the crowds.

Mount Tetnuldi is a majestic peak in the Caucasus and the we take an exciting route across the West Face and along the South West ridge to the summit. This is a great mountaineering peak in a true wilderness.

Mestia, the capital of Upper Svaneti and our base for the climb, is a small town steeped in history nestled in the valleys of the High Caucasus. A paved road to the town was only completed in 2011 and the region still retains a strong local culture, with its own language, which developed independently of the rest of Georgia. The mountaineering scene in this region is still very much in its infancy.

Sample Itinerary

Day 1: Collection from Tbilisi early morning and transfer to Mestia. (8-9 hours) Dinner in Mestia.
Day 2: Transfer to the start of the climb, hike up to Camp 1 (~3000m)
Day 3: Ascend to Camp 2 and establish Base Camp  on the glacier at ~3700m
Day 4: Acclimatisation day / excursion to Camp 3 (~4300m)
Day 5: Summit Mount Tetnuldi
Day 6; Spare Summit Day
Day 7: Descend and transfer back to Mestia.
Day 8-9: Rest in Mestia and transfer to Tbilisi.

Collection and return to / from Kutaisi can be arranged as an alternative.

There are limited rescue services in the Caucasus and the region feels very remote in comparison to the Alps, for this reason the cost includes a dedicated expedition medic as well as the qualified guiding team.

 

Just below Camp 3, before summit ridge.

The climb

The climb starts at a height of 2700m and culminates at the summit of Tetnuldi at 4858m, meaning there is significant elevation gain during the programme. Given the nature of the terrain, it is not practical to take porters and participants will be expected to carry all of their own equipment, including any equipment that may be provided by Remote Corner Adventures. The ascent to the glacier (3700m) is a very strenuous climb with full packs and will most likely require the use of crampons. Summit day will require an alpine start (2-3am) after which it should take approximately 6-7 hours to reach the summit depending on group speed, with a slightly quicker descent. The route involves crevassed glacier travel and includes significant exposure on the summit ridge, which can be icy.

The route is graded Russian 2B, which roughly translates as PD+ in alpine grading, however given the prolonged nature of the climb and remoteness from other climbers and emergency services, it is more intimidating than climbs of a similar difficulty in the Alps.

Participants should have a strong level of fitness and be comfortable at PD graded alpine routes. A brief time will be allowed to refresh the appropriate skills, but participants are expected to be familiar with these already, including the use of crampons up to 45-50 degree ice, use of ice axes for self-arrest and basic belaying, crevasse rescue techniques.

Guides

The expedition will be led by local qualified Georgian mountain guides with a guide : client ratio of 1:3.

 

Accommodation

Accommodation is provided in Mestia based on 2 people sharing rooms in a private apartment. Tents are also provided for the duration of the climb based on 2-3 people sharing. Participants are welcome to bring their own tents if preferred.

What’s included

– Qualified GMGA guiding team.
– Accommodation (excl. Tbilisi / Kutaisi)
– Transfers to from Tbilisi / Kutaisi
– Shared climbing equipment
– Shared camping equipment (tents, stoves)
– Selected evening meals in Mestia
– Fully equipped medical kit

What you need.

Graded Russian 2B, Tetnuldi is a physically demanding climb with some relatively easy technical sections. The ascent feels long and committing so a strong level of fitness is required and participants should be comfortable at PD graded alpine routes. You will be required to carry all your equipment, including that provided by us (shared tent, stove etc.)

All group equipment is provided but you will need to bring your personal climbing, camping gear and clothing including:

– Mountaineering boots
– Crampons
– Ice axe
– Helmet
– Harness
– Sleeping bag
– Ground mat

Morning and evening expedition meals (circa 2400 calories) are provided but you will need to bring your own lunches / snacks for the climb.

Personal climbing insurance providing mountain rescue is also required.

Flights not included.

Maximum group number: 6

Get in touch to discuss your climbing aspirations for the Caucasus now.

Interest? Have any queries? Please don’t hesitate to give us a call on (+44)07747 810543 or send us an email on info@remote-corner.com and we will be pleased to assist.

 

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